Nuku Hiva – Marquesas 14th to 18th of June

After a good long sleep in we stepped outside the boat to have a look at our surroundings. Beautiful rugged mountains with lush green vegetation. Wonderful! We got in contact with Kevin via radio from Yacht Services to see about checking in. But as it was weekend, nothing happened there, check in at the local police station only happens during their opening times, Monday to Friday from 07:30 to 12:30! That’s it. So instead we had a look around the friendly little town, got some local currency at the ATM of the bank and ended up having a drink at the snack place where you can get some internet. They were great there, I wish I took some photo of it! A big tin shed where food was cooked (delicious hot banana pockets, yumm!) and a tin roof out front of it with lots of long tables, benches and chairs. And all the yachties sitting there with their computers, talking on skype, getting in contact with home! And they didn’t mind if you sat there all day without buying much. They even had extension leads with power points to recharge your computers. One afternoon we sat there for 4 hours to do school work, Pay bills, send emails etc... People were so friendly and welcoming there.

On our arrival day was a special day for the village in Nuku Hiva. They had local canoe races with the big celebration at night time. And everyone was welcome. So at 19:00 we got ready to hop into the dinghy to get on land, but just as we left it started raining a bit. But we thought, fine, it will be ok. By the time we were halfway across the bay it was bucketing down! We were completely drenched by the time we reached land and looked like drowned rats arriving at the celebrations. The celebrations were in a big hall, everybody paid for the food. They made a table ready for us and set it up with lots of delicious food dishes and drinks! Yumm! Then we had entertainment from the local girls with their dancing, as well as some of the mums in lovely costumes. I do wish I could wobble my hips like they can! Great show. And the best was, it wasn’t a tourist thing, it was their local celebrations and only a few visitors were there. Then a few of the men got called out of the crowd and had to show what they can do. Very funny! After a great night, we went home with our leftover food, which lasted us for another tow meals!

The local beer, nice!

The next morning we sailed over to Danial Bay to go for a hike to a waterfall (about 4 hour hike all up). It is 350m high and apparently the third tallest in the world?! After a very rough motor to the bay we found this amazingly beautiful sheltered bay!

Lovely lunch and we put the dinghy in to get on land and find the way to the waterfall. After pulling the dinghy up at the beach we got talking to Gary and his son, an American yachty who told us which way to go, but also mentioned, that they tried to get to the waterfall the day before, but because of all the rain, the river was to deep and raging to be able to cross it... But as the rain had eased, we thought we give it a try and set on our way. We were accompanied by a local dog, which ran around at the beach. Short into our trip we were joined by a very nice American couple also on the hike to the waterfall.

First river crossing: No problem, only up to our knees and soft flow. We still had the ambition then not to get wet, so Ben took his shoes off before he stepped into the river. But we were still close to the ocean and Ben stepped straight away into a sea urgin! So, shoes back on and just walk through the water with shoes on. Made it easier anyway, had a better grip this way. Then we walked through the little village with beautiful flowering hibiscus and bougainvillea and fruit gardens, with bananas, limes, grapefruit, mangoes and lots more. All gardens were lined with beautiful bushes and therealso was a French telephone booth in the middle of nowhere! So funny and random! Also they had about three cars there, even though there is no road which leads to other parts of the island and they can only drive about 500m! So funny.

Once we were through the gardens, we arrived at another river crossing. This time the water went almost up to our hips and we had to get through very slowly hanging on to rocks to not be swept away by the currents! But we made it! On we went through the bush coming up to a very spectacular canyon, from where we could already see the waterfall from far.

To be continued... We have to leave now for another island, will write soon again and try to keep putting more photos on.

Hi Everybody. I’m back, finally trying to finish writing about our adventure. Actually, can’t finish as our adventure just keeps on going. We are currently sailing up at the Bay of Islands in New Zealand, an absolute dream of a day. I’m sitting in the cockpit looking back out to beautiful scenery. When we came back to the boat after Christmas it was just like coming home. I have missed being on Havachat a lot. But before I keep on going with New Zealand I finish of where I left of in Nuku Hiva.

At the third river crossing the water would reach up to our hips and the current was very strong. We lost the dog being swept a bit back down the river, so we had to help him across at his second try, with me pushing from behind and Pete pulling him from the front... As Lisa was more worried about the dog crossing safely than us! As it turned out it was the wrong crossing and we had to get back!

After a few detours, the dog got us back on the right path and we were rewarded with a beautiful waterfall and swimming pool underneath it. 

We all had a little break and a bicci (even the doggy, as he looked at us with these big brown eyes, saying, I really deserve something for leading you here!) After a quick swim we had to head back, as we left our trip a bit late and it was getting on in the afternoon and we were worried, that we had to head back in the dark, which would have been not so great, considering the raging river crossings and the narrow little walking paths at the side of the mountains... But we made it, arriving at the beach with the dinghy waiting just has it got dark.

Well, the French are funny! They put phone boxes in the oddest places. And of course it didn't work anyway!

The next day we sailed back to Tailohae and booked a horse ride with Sabine as our leader. She picked us up from the village, drove us to her farm and we went all for a lovely horse ride through beautiful Nuku Hiva.

 View over Tailohae on the way to Sabine's farm

After the ride Sabine took us on a car tour around the north of the island and showed us around. 

It was time to leave for the Tuomotus, as Ben couldn’t wait to get down with all the fish!

Pacific Puddle Jump, 3100 nautical miles – 28th of May to 14th of June (16 days and 12 hours)

After stocking up on some more food for the big crossing (food is expensive in Galapagos, I refused to get more Nutella at $16.00 per little glass!! But we got lots of nice bananas in all ripeness stages, the bananas are just delicious here and other nice fruit and veggies). Then we set sail and were on our way. As we had been at anchor for a while again, we had to get our sea legs again, so Jack, Lisa and I laid flat for a few days to wait for the sea sickness to go. But then it went better and we even got some school work done. Finally the wind turned from the east (we had to sail a fair bit south first to be able to catch the trade winds) and we could put the parasailor up. Then we got the speed! The parasailor is just great! With an average speed between 9 and 11 knots the boat just glides along beautiful!

But of course the wind did not stay all the time as we wanted it, so it became often a daily routine of Parasailor up, Gennaker down, Gennaker up, Parasailor down, Head sail up, Main sail up, Main sail down! I mean, you know, we can’t get bored!!! Kept us fit! Sometimes when we had to get especially the parasailor down because of the wind getting too strong, it was really hard work to get the sock over the sail with the wind blowing into it.

 Another beautiful sunset

But all in all it was a very good crossing, we cooked beautiful meals, had many movie nights and the time went quick. Besides overtaking one sail boat on the second day, we did not see one boat on the whole crossing and also the wildlife was reduced to some dolphins, flying fish and squid. One night Lisa slept in Jacks back cabin as it was too bumpy in the front cabins to sleep a lot of the time. Anyway, in the morning Lisa opens her eyes and looks at something next to her on her pillow, which she reckons looked like a big blob of snott!  But the snott had big googely eyes and Jack touched it and it was a little squid! Disgusted he went into his bathroom to wash his hands just to find 3 more in the sink! We had lot of the squid on the boat. Don’t know, if they just got washed with the waves on the boat? And then of course flying fish all the time! We put our flyscreens on the hatches to not end up having them lying in bed, like Ben had one morning! 

It was great to eventually see land again! And we did the whole journey very fast, 3100 nmiles in 16.5 days, which means we had an average speed of 8 knots! Pretty good! 

We lived like kings: cakes...

home made pizzas

Schoolwork

Breakfast

We arrived at Nuku Hiva short after midnight, found an anchor place in the bay and fell exhausted into bed, to wait and see what this new island will bring....

Galapagos Islands 18th to 27th of May

  We left Panama on Sunday the 11^th of May to stay the first night of our trip at Las Islas Perlas again, so we can make sure the hull is completely clean. Had a good sail there, with catching a great big Mahi Mahi already half hour after we left Panama! But no wind.....

Monday morning at anchor Lisa and Pete got in the water bright and early at about six to start cleaning the hull. Pete even finished off with putting his scuba gear on and cleaning right down the bottom.

Finished by 10 and we are on our way... Still no wind, picking up after a little while so we could at least put the gennaker up and guess what, the boys caught another fish! This time a beautiful yellow fin tuna, which meant, fresh sashimi for afternoon tea!

 The rest of the afternoon we spent watching for about 2 hours a very big pot of dolphins playing around the boat. When one lot left, another would come. We just never get sick of watching then. We did some really great footage underwater with the gopro on a stick!

After the calm first couple of days the weather got really rough and poor Lisa and Jack weren’t feeling that well! A few days with wind and waves coming straight from the front! Yuck!

 
Lisa's turn on watch

 
 Mangoes!

Our first encounter with the Galapagos wildlife we made already about 200 nm off Galapagos. A few red footed boobies (they are birds! They have blue footed boobies as well, look really cool with these bright blue feet!) decided our boat is a great resting place for the night. And another 4 kept circling it. So..., yes you guessed it! They of course pooped all over the boat again!!

 Rocks just of San Cristobal

We finally arrive at San Cristobal bright and early on Sunday morning the 18^th. Quickly before we arrive, we change over flags, panama down, Ecuador and the yellow customs flag up. Now we have to wait until everything is inspected before we are to leave the boat. While we are waiting for our agent and the officials, we try spotting seal, which we find sitting on the rocks on land. Finally our agent and a crew of about 6 come on board to fill in paperwork and inspect every cupboard on board and look how we recycle etc... Then also a diver arrives to dive under the boat to check. Of course we pass with flying colours!!!

Now we can finally explore land. We notice that nobody takes their dinghy in, not allowed, only for drop off and pick up, and we also notice that everybody got fenders at the back of their boats and the Galapagos boats even have their boat boarded up with nets or barbed wire! We will find out soon enough the reasoning for this... On our way in with the ‘taxi acuatico’  we see an old boat which is covered with sea lions! And then when we come to the wharf, they are everywhere! You just about have to step over them! And they don’t care about the people. Just lay in the sun and sleep. And the little ones in and out of the water playing, getting nipped a bit from the adults when they get too annoying for them. San Cristobal has a lovely sleepy little town, where everything is pretty much closed on Sundays. Sundays is family day here and families are out together at the beach, etc. But the interpretation centre was open, so we visited this, which gives you  great information on the history of Galapagos. If you find some time, google it. It’s interesting and sad! But people here are working hard to bring back what was lost in the past. After that, back to the boat for an early dinner and early night as we were still very tired from the travelling. But before we slept, we also put our fenders out the back, to avoid the seals coming on board...

Wake up: 6am. Me: ‘Did I dream, this or did the kids come in last night to say there are seals on the boat?’ Pete: ‘No, I think I remember something like that as well..’ So we get quickly up and there is Jack sleeping in the salon. ‘Why did you sleep here Jack?’’ Two seals came on board and one was rolling around over my hatch and I was worried that it might break and the seal lands in my cabin, so I went up here!’ So we really didn’t dream it.

  I look out and there is a seal sleeping on our cushions in the cockpit! And another on the back steps of the boat!

  After we shoo them off, we start cleaning the seal smell away. They actually smell like wet dog. And they shed their fur as well as dogs. there was seal hair everywhere! But besides all that, it was very exciting to have them on the boat. so we learn, fenders are not enough, they just push them aside and come on. Pete thankfully still had the fruit nets, which he span across the top of the back steps. That was our compromise with the seals: They can sleep on the back steps, no problem, but not on the cushions!!! And all the time they come back to use our boat as a resting and sleeping place. But really, catamarans are sooo convenient for this! After this first big excitement, we put the dinghy in and Pete drove Ben over to see how the surf is, which was really good the day before. But his luck, nothing on this morning!! On the way they saw a lot of sea turtles, so instead they picked up Lisa and Jack and the three of them went for a swim with a whole lot of turtles. Fantastic! In the meantime I made a lovely pancake breakfast (Hey, Judy and Pete, all the mix is empty, can you please drop off more? Thanks!). All smiles around at the breakfast table, what an exciting and wonderful start of the day! And it wasn’t even 8am yet!

 Local seals and how beautiful are these crabs?

At 9am we were to meet our agent to go on an island tour. Out taxi is twin cab ute, like all taxis here. To not having to squash with four in the back, Lisa and Jack hopped in the tray with a big smile on their faces! What a great way to go! Our driver only spoke spanish, so my good little friend, the dictionary, got a good workout. But I understood most of what he told us and could translate it for the rest of the family.

Our first stop was at a turtle breeding farm. They are on all the main islands here to try and reverse, what has been happening in the last centuries. With the breeding they have a 60% survival rate, which is much higher than in nature. There were 11 kinds of tortoises here on the islands, but 2 are already extinct, with one of them dying in 2012. 'Lonesome George' was the last of his kind. They tried very hard to find a mate for him, but couldn't. Then they put some other tortoise ladies with him, but he didn't want them! Poor George! They dedicated a whole book to him.

The little tortoises a kept in smaller enclosures and when they are 2 years old they move them into semi wild enclosures and with 5 years of age, they are released into the wild. It it done very natural and the tortoise numbers are increasing again. Lisa thought, these little tortoises were just too adorable!

Our next stop was at a lava lake, which we didn't see too much of it, as it was in the clouds. Still a nice walk.

And then off to Playa Blanca to swim with the seals and tortoises. This was awesome! The seals love to swim with people! They come really close, nipped on Pete's and Jacks feet and Ben's fins and Lisa's hair. I quickly pulled my feet away when I felt their wiskers! It was just to great. And then we spotted some turtles and they don't even get scared either and swim away. You can go straight next to them and they don't care! So great. We had the best time. 

Our tour finished off with a lovely late lunch. What a fantastic day! Lisa reckons, this was the best day of her life so far! 

Our next island of Galapagos was Santa Cruz. It took us about 5 hours to sail there, all went well. Here is the Charles Darwin Research Centre, which we visited straight away after we arrived. Here as well is of course a tortoise breeding centre. The next day the kids and I went for a long walk to Tortuga bay, where we snorkeled a bit and spend some time at the beach. Lots of water iguanas there.

Cactus tree

 Here at this island we also did a dive at Beagle Rock and Daphne. Two great dives! We saw turtles, a manta ray lots of beautiful reef fish, lots of white tipped reef sharks and the best was a wall of fish! I don't know how to describe it, sadly the gopro was flat so no photos, thousands of fish a bit bigger than my hand that build a wall and you can make them move away but they close straight away back in, really cool!

On the way to the dive sites 

Yesterday we went on an island tour with a local taxi. Had a great day. First stop to see some flamingos!  

Then we drove up on a hill where you can see the whole island from north to south and see into a volcano crater.  

Next stop was at a lava tunnel. It is 2.2km long and the second longest in South America and the fourth longest in the world. Was really cool.

Then we had a great lunch with our taxi driver, who showed us a non tourist local eating place. So yummy food!

Last stop was a place where we could see the tortoises in the wild! Some of them where huge and about 100 years old and others were only little and only about 15 years old. 

A 100 year old male trying to mate with a 15 year old female. Poor thing was trying to get away, but got stuck in a bush...

On the way home, we saw lots on the side of the road. Funny, we have kangaroos and here there are tortoises on the side of the road. It takes a while but if you have to stop for them to cross the road....

Today was school day and shopping day. Ben and I went to the local markets to stock up on fresh fruit and vegies for our 3 week trip to the Marquesas. Tomorrow we will be leaving for another Galapagos island, Isabela, our last stop here! 

To some it up, as the lovely locals say: It is paradise here!

Sailed to Isabela today. What a perfect day for sailing! We had the gennaker up and the main sail, blue sky and flat seas and 8 to 10 knot speed! Why can't it be like that all the time. We got here at lunch time, but it took Pete all afternoon with the port captain, as our agent forgot to put our details in for here.... So the boys checked the place out a bit, found some penguins, like our fairy penguins. They are the most northern penguins. Tomorrow we will go a bit more snorkeling and then we will be of to Nuku Hiva, Marquesas French Polynesia. Three weeks of sailing. Been trying to upload more photos, but internet is terrible here for bigger files... Will try but. Other than that, you will have to wait until Nuku Hiva.